The clock shows my departure time from St. Jean. And I think that bright light in theupper right really is the moon. I was focussing on the clock and the archway when I took the pic.
It was actually very nice to walk in the dark for a couple of reasons. The first, it wasn't completely dark because it was a full moon and I knew that the sun would be coming up behind me in the not too distant future. The second, there were absolutely no others out, and it felt, for the first and perhaps only time on this particular pilgrimage, that I might really be the only one doing it. Oh, and I guess there's one more - the roosters were just starting to crow in the farm yards that I passed by as the dawn was breaking.
The whole day was wonderful. All the things that are written about the camino, both the good and the bad, are all true. The pathway, for about 70% of today's leg, was a narrow asphalt road used by all manner of local traffic. Local traffic that are immensely patient with this invasion of their neighbourhood. It's not like Big Valley or the MS Bike tour that happens once a year. This happens EVERY day. They were extremely courteous, considering. You are never alone. There's always someone to talk to (provided your facility with their language or vice versa is working. You can be alone if you wish. No one tried to hook me into their group; I felt as comfortable walking alone as with others. The weather was splendid today, hot, sunny and a slight breeze when in the open. But there was evidence of fairly recent rain - and it is mucky when it rains. Where it was shady and not dried completely, it was still fairly messy with evidence of how bad it was when it was at its worst.
Here's a few pics of the day:
The Way - of cars trucks and pilgrims.
Getting a little way up, St Jean was down in the mist when I left and as the sun came up, I could look down upon it. Notice the smoke coming up the cottage chimney.
The Pyrenees, the pasture and me. (Just to prove I'm not holed up in a 5 star resort and writing fiction in this blog.)
Ate my bread and cheese lunch here - the view much more spectacular the other way, but these logs didn't seem to belong here - and I wondered where they came from and why they were lying on this particular patch of ground.
There were three of these water taps along the route today. They each looked a little different, but carring excess water is not really necessary - thankfully.
Looking from the pass down toward Ronceveaux.
Approximately 1 hour after this, I arrived in Roncevalles. I came out of the trees near a creek and there is this magnificent gothic church. And off to my left is a row of about 7 picnic tables covered with table cloths, and filled with average looking Spaniards. All ages. On the picnic table nearest to my progress there was this gigantic "wok like" pan. I have no photo and can't think how else to describe it. There were a couple of men gesturing to some of the pilgrims in front of me and I sort of followed along in the que to see what was going on.
As near as two Scotswomen and I can figure out, it was like a church picnic - it was about 3:30 in the afternoon - just after siesta. All the people had filled there plates and there was extra. And a few of us happened to be in the right place at the right time.
There were paper plates of paella offered to us (Google that if you need to and I apologize if my spelling is wrong). It was the real deal. Also some kind of melon was cut into large slices and they were very insistent that we have some. After 9 hours on the trail - about 7 of them walking - who were we to decline? No we couldn't pay. They wouldn't hear of it. And several of them got up to take our photos as though we were a herd of exotic beasts that had just wandered into the church picnic. Crazy. And crazy delicious. About six of us enjoyed this unexpected hospitality.
Following that, we found our refuge - a very modern, spotlessly clean dormitory facility attached to the church. 10 euro per night. I have a top bunk. You could eat off any surface in here - I don't think it will be the same everywhere but very lovely for a first night of "roughing it".
Because it's Sunday, I was able, along with locals and several other pilgrims, to go to mass in the church. The preaching priest (there were 4 priests in albs) had a bible and an ipad - very up to date - and he had people read the lessons and Psalms in different languages - searching them out in the pews. Very lovely Spanish service, guitar music accompanied the choir.
Great supper at a restaurant across the courtyard, soup, trout and french fries - strange combo, but delicious.
It's off to bed now - tomorrow's another day ...
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